FAQ: Page 7

The Violet Barn

Question: I am new to propagating African violets. My question is: how long does it take for them to sprout? The leaves aren't dying or anything, just sitting there.

Answer: How many plantlets a leaf produces, and how quickly it does so, depends upon a number of things. First, the age of the leaf. It's best to use leaves that are mature, but not old. This usually means leaves taken from say, the third row. Leaves much older than this have petioles that are "tougher" in texture. If the petiole is hard or leathery, it will likely be slower to produce plantlets. Leaves that are too young also propagate less well. For this reason, it's best to avoid using the undersized, "baby" leaves that appear first on a very young plant. We've found that plantlets can be removed from the mother leaf and individually potted anywhere from 3 to 5 months from the date the leaf was first put down.

Other factors are rooting medium, your growing conditions, and variety. Use a very light rooting medium, one that can be kept moist without rotting the leaves. Personally, ours is about 75% coarse vermiculite, 5% perlite, and the remainder sphagnum peat moss. Many growers use a mix of only vermiculite and perlite. In any event, keep it light and porous. Leaves also seem to produce plantlets more quickly when they are kept covered say, in clear plastic box or baggie. When doing this, be sure not to overwater the medium (damp but not soggy). Keep the leaves in a bright area (no direct sun) that's neither cool nor warm--65f to 75f degrees is best. Too cold and they will develop very slowly, too warm and they may rot. As it is with most things, variety can also be a big factor. Some varieties just seem to propagate more quickly and prolifically.

A couple of final tips. Don't cut the petioles too long and don't bury them too deep. Most plantlets are produced from the cut end of the petiole. The further this end is beneath the soil surface, the longer it will be before plantlets appear. We cut them to about 1/4" to 1/2" in length, and root the leaf so that the bottom of the leaf blade is level with the surface of the rooting medium. It also speeds things along if the tip of the leaf blade is trimmed away. This keeps the leaf itself from growing and promotes more rapid root and plantlet development. Finally, add a little fertilizer to the rooting medium, though some might disagree with this. Our feeling is that every growing thing needs food. After all, we wouldn't think of withholding food from an expectant mother or newborn.

Question: As we like to travel, we have set up large trays, 2" deep, with grids, upon which sit the plants with wicks dipping into the water. This method has been very successful. However, I have one problem--a spectacular array of algae. Is there anything I can put in the water to retard the growth of the algae, and still be harmless to the plants?

Answer: Bright light and water mean algae. Using dark-colored trays will help, since less light is reflected off of the tray. We used to have the same problem on the blankets that we use as capillary matting for many of our violets, made worse by the fact that cheap acrylic blankets seemingly can be found only in lighter colors. Thos blankets could get real ugly, real fast, even when cleaned regularly. We've never found the algae to be harmful to violets, even when the blankets were greener than the plants sitting upon them.

To remedy this, we began adding Physan 20 to the water used to wet the blankets. Not much is needed, far less than the recommended dilution. In fact, we add only about 1/2 to 3/4 tsp. per gallon of water, once every three weeks. Doing this, we've had virtually no evidence of algae since, and there's seemingly no ill effect on the violets. In addition, the product is relatively safe to use and has a not unpleasant soap-like smell. For those that wick-water, it works just as well in keeping reservoirs free of algae.

Question: If I grow under florescent lights, how long should they be left on? How far should the plants be from the tubes?

Answer: Usually 12-13 hours each day, though the time depends somewhat upon how close the plants are kept to the lights, there being a trade-off. Personally, we keep lights on 13 hours a day, year-round, and have all lights on lamp timers to turn them on and off automatically at the same time every day. Minis and semiminiatures are grown about 10-11" below two 40-watt florescent tubes--measured from tubes to leaf surface. Standards are grown further away, about 18" below the tubes. May growers will grow their violets closer to the tubes, but usually keep lights on for only 11 or 12 hours each day. Also keep in mind that there is less light towards the end of the light fixtures, as well as on the shelf edges. Older tubes also produce less light than newer ones. We should also note that this rule of thumb applies for the traditional 40-watt tube we've grown used too--many of those sold currently produce more or less light, more or less efficiently.

Whatever you've decided, it's always best to make adjustment based upon the performance of your violets. If growth is spindly and upright, with sparse blooms, then more light is likely needed (don't overcrowd plants!). If growth is bunched and/or hugs the pot rim, leaves are pale, yet bloom is good, less light might be called for.

Question: Should I premoisten soil when I repot?

Answer: We prefer to. To begin with, premoistened soil is much easier to work with, since it clings together somewhat and can be "molded" in the pot. It's also less messy since it's less "dusty"--you won't be inhaling this, either. Moisten the soil the night before, using hot water. We use 1 gallon of water to 4 gallons of soil mix. We've also found it best to repot plants from moist (not soggy) soil into moist soil. After repotting, water only lightly. Until the repotted plant can establish roots in the added soil, it need less water than the pot size might suggest. This might take 2-3 weeks. If your plant appears wilted even when the soil is moist, you may have overwatered.

Question: I have one African violet. Some divisions bloom a solid purple and others bloom purple and white. What causes this to happen?

Answer: If divisions means crowns, you may want to separate these and pot them individually. As for the different flower colors, this is the consequence of both genetics and environment. Not knowing the variety, we assume this is a violet that is genetically a multicolor-blossomed variety. Instability, unfortunately, is the price we pay for having varieties in such color combinations. Environment also plays a role, since distressed plants tend to be more unstable. By this we mean excessively war, dry, or toxic conditions.

To limit the instability, propagate from plants that themselves are stable. When selecting leaves to root, here's a hint: light-colored leaves tend to produce plants with light-colored blooms, darker leaves produce darker blooms. Since heavily multicolored varieties often have leaves with darker mottling, you can make this choice. This mottling will look like a "birthmark" on the leaf. As for the environment, avoid excessive heat or dryness. This is why so many multicolor blooms become solid during the warm summer months. Overuse of fertilizers or insecticides can also cause instability.

Question: I grow my violets 15" below 4-tube fixtures. The lights are on 12-16 hours a day. On some plants the center leaves look crowded and a little hard, but I'm not sure if this is due to too much light or not.

Answer: This may, indeed, be the result of too much light, particularly for most standard-size varieties. This is particularly true for many varieties with wavy, ruffled, or girl-type leaves that, by their nature, tend to crowd in the center.

Question: Please tell me the definition of "stick-tite" and "wasp".

Answer: These terms are used to describe certain types of blossoms. "Stick-tite" blooms are those that do not drop from the pedicel (blossom stem). This is often a problem with single (5-petalled) blossoms that can fall from the pedicel even while still fresh. Usually this is not a problem with semidouble and double blossoms. Often blossoms that appear to be single are, in fact, semidouble blossoms where the extra petal is difficult to see. Though genetically semidouble, these are often described as "stick-tite" single blossoms.

"Wasp" refers to single blossoms that have separate, very narrow, petal lobes. Few of these varieties are still widely grown, since there blooms tend to be smaller, single, and not "stick-tite".

Question: I recently visited an African violet show. Many of the violets displayed there were very large, perhaps 18" or more across. Mine have never gotten that large. Can you explain why?

Answer: First, keep in mind that these are showplants. A prize-winning plant is the result of good culture and plenty of TLC. Serious exhibitors also usually grow those varieties that make the best showplants--i.e. large, symmetrical foliage, and heavy bloom.

The most important factor, however, is probably disbudding. Our large showplants are disbudded (not allowed to bud or bloom) continually from 6-8 months to about 6-10 weeks prior to the show. During this time, all of the plant's energy goes into foliage growth, not blossom production. As a result, the leaves grow much larger. While large showplants are often grown in (shallow) pots 6" or larger, violets that aren't going to show do quite well in 4" pots, where they continue to bloom and grow to about 10-12" in diameter. Most exhibitors also use leaf supports, or "rings", which go underneath the outer row of leaves and keep them from bending down over the rim of the pot. This ensures that the leaves are held flat, and are exposed to the maximum amount of light, which promotes more vigorous growth. Besides these differences, culture is the same in virtually every other way.

Question: I have many miniature violets that I purchased from you last year, and they could use a little repotting. I've improved their appearance by removing the lower leaves that were no longer attractive and was wondering at what point can I cover this bare stem/trunk with soil? Can I cover the bare stem with soil as soon as I remove the leaves, or is there a waiting period for the stem to callous over from having the leaves pinched off before I move the soil line up to cover the area?

Answer: Personally, we don't bother to wait for the bare neck to callous. We remove whatever leaves need to be removed and then repot them immediately. Of course, that doesn't make it a better way, just an easier one. As with any open wound, it's best to avoid exposing it to infection. The callous is just nature's idea of a bandage. It probably is better to let the neck callous before repotting, to avoid exposure to harmful bacteria or disease borne in the potting soil.

Our experience has been that this isn't necessary. We rarely, if ever, have any problems by repotting immediately. The soil we use, like most of today's soilless mixes, is relatively sterile and free of anything that is likely to harm the plant. Back in the days when growers used topsoil in their mixes (or worse, something out of the backyard), sterilization was a real necessity and soil-borne disease more prevalent. The most important thing is that your violets are repotted regularly, when they need to be. If waiting for the neck to callous makes it more likely to postpone (or forget) repotting, your plant's no better off. Besides, by the time a good callous has formed, there may be another leaf or two that needs to be removed!

Question: All of my violets are producing flowers on stems well above the foliage. The leaves are growing upwards at a 45 degree angle, not like the pictures I've seen. I use a GE incandescent grow-bulb at the recommended 24 inches above the plants.

Answer: The leaves are reaching upwards in search of more light. In addition, though you have enough light to produce flowers, there would likely be more of them, on shorter stems, if there were better light. Though you are properly following the instructions for using such a bulb, this is the inherent shortcoming with incandescent light--at the recommended distance, the light isn't bright enough. You could move the bulb closer to the plants, which would provide the desired light intensity, but would also generate too much heat, as well as not illuminating much of an area beyond that immediately beneath the bulb.

This is why most growers using artificial light choose florescent lighting. Floresent lights are far more efficient, producing more light, rather than heat, over a larger area, for the same amount of electricity consumed. Today's florescent fixtures don't even have those heavy, hot, ballasts to deal with. Most of these come with solid-state ballasts that consume virtually no electricity and generate little heat. The fixtures are cheap enough, too. $10 usually is enough to purchase a 48" shop light plus two florescent bulbs. At anywhere from 10" to 18" above the plants, these can adequately illuminate an approximately 2' x 4' area. Don't have the space (or desire) for such a large fixture? Florescent bulbs and fixtures can be found in any number of shapes and sizes--you can even find one to screw into that incandescent bulb socket! You're only limited by how resourceful you want to be.

"Grow bulbs" can be expensive, but that would be the case whether using either incandescent or florescent lighting. The good news is that plants care far more about the intensity of the light rather than its color spectrum. The only difference will be in how the plant and blooms will appear (not, in fact, be). "Red" blooms may appear more red or more purple, depending upon the bulb chosen, even though its actual color is the same. The biggest advantage of a good "grow bulb" is that the plant's appearance will be closer to that in natural light and is "warmer" and more pleasing to the eye--which can be important when plants share living space with you.

Question: I purchased a couple of your miniature violets, 'Rob's Whoa Nellie' and 'Rob's Cool Fruit', about five months ago. I have both plants under florescent lights at my office. They get 8-plus hours of light, are both on reservoirs, with violet food. They have lots of leaves, in fact, they have an abundance of sucker leaves that keep coming up in the middle, but not one bloom. What do you suggest I do to help them?

Answer: You're right, they should have bloomed long ago. There seem to be two possible problems. First, how close are the florescent lights to the plants? If these are ceiling lights used to illuminate the office, they are not getting nearly enough light to bloom well. For miniature violets, a two-tube florescent light fixture needs to be within 8-12" of the plant surface, for 12-13 hours a day--less if there is good supplemental light provided by windows in the office. If this is the case, you need to find a way of providing more light for your plants. How about a small table-top light fixture for the top of that filing cabinet in the corner?

The second problem is those "abundance of sucker leaves" in the middle of the plant. Suckers and blooms tend to be mutually exclusive. More of one means less of the other. Be diligent in removing any growth from the leaf axils that you know isn't a flower bud. Why they are appearing in the "center" is another problem. These are the worst kind of suckers, since they can't be easily removed without damaging the true growing center of the plant. Often, they will appear when the growing center of the plant is damaged (by accident or neglect), or otherwise can no longer grow. Other times, it is simply a genetic characteristic of the plant, though we've never found these two varieties to have this problem. If suckers are continued to be produced from the center of the plant, despite your attempts to remove them, you have two choices. If the suckers are being produced due to the center having been damaged, allow one of these suckers to fully develop, then start another plant from it. If the condition is genetic, there's not much you can do besides surrender--it will likely continue to produce these "crown" suckers.

Question: What fertilizer do you use? I have only been able to locate Miracle Gro for African Violets and it is 7-7-7. I have found no 15-15-15 or 20-20-20. Do you have any suggestions? At this time I am doubling-up on the Miracle Gro.

Answer: The numbers you are referring to represent the percentage of the three major nutrients; nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, respectively, contained in the fertilizer. In this case, the 15-15-15 fertilizer contains a bit more than twice the relative amounts of these nutrients than does the 7-7-7. The 20-20-20 fertilizer contains almost three times the relative amounts. Since all three fertilizers contain the same amounts of nutrients relative to each other (i.e. all are "balanced" formulas), you could double (or triple) the usage of the 7-7-7 fertilizer to achieve the same diet as the others.

That said, you need to ask "double" what? What unit of measure is being used? One may call for a quarter teaspoon of dry fertilizer while the other calls for 7-10 "drops", or a quarter "capful". Rather than get a headache trying to figure all of this out, its best just to follow the instructions on the label for whatever fertilizer you choose to use--the manufacturer has already done all of this math for you. Most fertilizers will give directions for every-watering use (what we'd suggest), or for occasional (2-4 weeks) use. Use whatever dilutions apply for your watering and feeding schedule. If you use constant-watering systems, such as "wicking" or "self-watering" pots, use half, or less, of the recommended amount, since your violet will be processing much greater volumes of water than one that is only periodically watered.

Question: In the last couple of months, on e-Bay, I saw a chimera ('Rob's Lucky Penny') that had normal (not striped) flowers, but a stread of white on the sides of all of its leaves. But, the auctioner of this plant made the point that the variegation was from chimeralism, and that the leaves wouldn't lose their color with diet or heat. I would like to know more about propagating these types of plants.

Answer: Most African violets can be successfully propagated by leaf, producing plants that are genetically identical to the leaf donor. It normally doesn't matter which leaf is used for propagation, since all fo the cells of one leaf are genetically identical to the cells of any other. Chimeras are different, however. These plants have plant tissues where individual cells are genetically different from one another. Because of this, producing plantlets identical to the donor plant is difficult by leaf cuttings. Not every cell in every leaf is genetically the same as the plant it is removed from.

The word "chimera" has become synonymous with plants having "pinwheel", or striped, blooms, because most of these varieties can't be successfully propagated by leaf cuttings. The plantlets produced usually will bloom without the pinwheel pattern to the bloom Successful propagation is only possible by letting the plants produce "suckers", harvesting these, then rooting them. To encourage suckers, the plants is often decrowned (the center is removed), leaving a "stump" behind that will produce more (and likely more viable) suckers.

In this instance, the "chimera" was a plant without pinwheel blooms, but with unusually variegated foliage that would only appear in plantlets when propagated by suckers. "Chimera", again, refers to the genetic properties of the plant's cells, which determines how it must be propagated, not the bloom or foliage coloring. When propagated by leaf cutting, the plantlets produced from 'Rob's Lucky Penny' would be entirely green, with no variegation (and we've found this variegation to be unique in that its intensity is immune to temperature, age, or feeding). Propagation by suckers is the only means of producing plantlets identical to the original plant.

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